Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these narratives and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
